Monday, December 24, 2012

Visa drama in Taipei - Part II


Part I of this series is the previous post. I recommend you head over and read that only so this post makes a bit more sense. 

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It was pouring heavily when the black Merc deposited me in front of my destination exactly 10 minutes ahead of my interview slot. Unlike the ones in Chennai or Singapore, the US consulate in Taipei doesn't have imposing walls, snaking lines along the compound or traffic constables looking to make a quick buck by offering to safeguard cellphones. It is a rather non-descript building, tucked away in a corner, just a stone’s throw from the Taipei 101 tower. Once inside, I was quickly ushered through fee payment and document verification by neatly dressed stewardesses. Although not very fluent in English, they were very helpful, very efficient and very pleasant. In stark contrast to the nose-in-the-air, holier-than-thou attitude that is the hallmark of the Indian staff manning the visa seekers at the US Consulate in Chennai. I remember getting hassled by a sari-clad lady who, I’m sure, would have given even G W Bush a tough time before letting him through to the counter.

The interview was rather short: I explained what happened and urged him to issue me a visa the same day so that I could take the flight back home the next day as planned. The visa officer, although slightly amused by my story, proceeded to review my application. After carefully ascertaining that I was a genuine applicant with no ulterior motives other than wanting to be home on time and escape the wife’s wrath, he promised to do his best to expedite the process. A married man perhaps. I was asked to pay the fees – a definite sign that my visa would get stamped. But the real question eating my brain was: When?

As if on cue, yet another stewardess appeared from nowhere and ushered me to yet another counter for some more processing. This time an Asian lady with impeccable English ran through an exhaustive set of questions the responses to none of which seemed to convince her to her fullest satisfaction. Finally, after interviewing me for what seemed like ages, she beamed a smile from behind the glass and asked me to return the following week to collect my visa. Mm mm, next week ain't gonna work ma’am. I had to explain my travel situation to her with the help of my itinerary and my previous conversation with the officer. She consulted with the officer that had interviewed me and finally consented to issue the visa the very same day. Tick tock tick tock…easily the longest five minutes in recent memory. It was at that moment that I chose to divulge to her that my passport had a solitary empty side, right behind my just expired visa. With a roll of her eyes, she walked in to the printing section and consulted with someone who reluctantly agreed to print it on that page. As an exception. Tick tock tick tock…easily the longest two minutes in recent memory. If they had refused, I had the Indian embassy’s address ready in my pocket to rush there and request a new passport. Phew!

I felt an intense feeling of relief wash all over me as I realized that my ordeal was coming to an end. I checked my watch. I had spent just over two hours at the embassy. However, in the bigger scheme of things, in less than 36 hours from when I landed in Taipei with a near-full passport and an expired visa, I had gone from being a person uncertain of when he would meet his family to a confirmed ticket holder with a freshly minted visa and on his way home as planned. Imagine walking on water, parting the seas and feeding a village with a lone fish – all in a single day. Although I had yet again brought another tight situation upon myself, I had yet again managed to break out of jail. If there is a God, he has a very twisted sense of humor. Unbeknownst to me, further proof lay ahead.

Stepping out of the embassy, I had my first meal in over 24 hours: a foot-long veggie delite at a Subway nearby. I classified that as breakfast and since I had a few hours to pick up my stamped passport, decided to get myself an Indian meal for lunch. A luxury that I decided to indulge in given the circumstances. God, despite his twisted sense of humor, finally was beginning to cut me some slack. I hailed a passing cab and asked him to take me to Ali Baba, a half-decent Indian restaurant that I had frequented on my earlier visits. The driver, who must have been licking his lips at the prospect of making some quick money, consulted with some fellow drivers nearby and started driving around. Although I knew I was being ripped off, I was not in the mood to protest.  

After about 10 minutes of passing through narrow lanes, he stopped in front of an Italian restaurant and tried convincing me that this is where I had asked him to take me. After much explanation, he drove around a bit more and this time stopped in front of an Iranian (Persian) restaurant. His next stops, I suspect, would have been Iraqi, Israeli, Indonesian restaurants before taking me to an Indian place finally. Instead I chose to call his bluff, settled his fare, collected the receipt and decided to ditch my Indian lunch plans in favor of a third “I” cuisine: Irish. That’s right. I started making my way towards a nearby McDonald’s to have a BigMac lite (a regular priced Big Mac without the meat. Every time I travel, McD’s make good margins) when the falling drizzle made me realize that I had left my umbrella behind in that taxi.

I started giving chase but the lights had already turned green and he eased into the sea of traffic and soon disappeared. Now keen readers may wonder why I would be running behind some random taxi for an umbrella that probably cost $5? It was no ordinary umbrella: it was my manager’s father’s umbrella with his name printed on it. That is why. Even if I did buy an exact replacement, my calligraphy skills would give me away. Moreover, the prospect of missing out on my meager professional output for the rest of the year had already given him a mild heart attack. Although the visa was obtained, I didn't want to do any further damage to my already besmirched image by reporting the lost umbrella.

Swearing to hunt it down, I entered a branch of the Taishin International Bank that was right there and urged the security guard to call the taxi to return my item. In English. The nonplussed guard, who spoke nary a bit of the Queen's language, pointed me to the Savings Deposit counter which, I suspect, also doubled up as the “Miscellaneous Stupid Requests” counter as needed.

I explained the situation to the lady behind the counter.

“Taxi. Umbrella. Take. Call. Taxi. Return. Umbrella. Please” Repeat after me: less is better.

When she stood up, a very pregnant lady that could go into labor any minute, and started to go to the security desk, it wasn't fully clear whether it was to help me trace the missing umbrella or call the cops on me. But I've read somewhere that pregnant ladies are better judges of character*.
* To be verified.

Although the bank wasn't exactly teeming with depositors eager to conduct financial business, bear in mind, it was still peak hour and she must have had banking duties to take care of. Yet, she parked herself at the security desk and started dialing the cab company's phone number from my receipt. I silently wished her a happy child birth whether or not my manager got his umbrella back. She must have been on the phone for a good ten minutes.The poor soul even passed me hand-written notes while still on the phone to keep me updated on what was happening.

“I catch the taxi owner.” “Umbrella on the taxi.” “Taxi driver move back fast.”

* Sniff.* People, if this doesn't make you believe in the general goodness of humanity, I don’t know what will.

In less than five minutes, the same taxi pulled up in front of the branch. A little while later, I thanked the kind lady profusely and left the place clutching the umbrella tightly. I was having a very lucky day by any measure: it seemed I couldn't do a thing wrong even if I tried. I wish I had bought a lottery ticket amidst all that was happening. I walked all the way back to the US embassy reflecting on my good fortunes. At the appointed hour of 3:30 pm, my now full passport with the visa printed on the very last page was ready for daddy to pick it up. As I ran my fingers along the smooth surface, I could imagine how Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing would have felt at the summit of Mount Everest. Even if they had gone back to pick up something Edmund had left behind on their first climb. 


The return flight home next day was easily the best trans-pacific hop I've ever taken. The crummy United Airlines 747 aircraft felt like a Singapore Airlines 777ER. The cramped economy class cabin felt like the luxurious first class zone. The aging, rude flight crew appeared like the cheerful, pleasant ones from Singapore Airlines. The Asian vegetarian goo though still felt like badly cooked cardboard. 

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