Monday, December 24, 2012

Visa drama in Taipei - Part II


Part I of this series is the previous post. I recommend you head over and read that only so this post makes a bit more sense. 

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It was pouring heavily when the black Merc deposited me in front of my destination exactly 10 minutes ahead of my interview slot. Unlike the ones in Chennai or Singapore, the US consulate in Taipei doesn't have imposing walls, snaking lines along the compound or traffic constables looking to make a quick buck by offering to safeguard cellphones. It is a rather non-descript building, tucked away in a corner, just a stone’s throw from the Taipei 101 tower. Once inside, I was quickly ushered through fee payment and document verification by neatly dressed stewardesses. Although not very fluent in English, they were very helpful, very efficient and very pleasant. In stark contrast to the nose-in-the-air, holier-than-thou attitude that is the hallmark of the Indian staff manning the visa seekers at the US Consulate in Chennai. I remember getting hassled by a sari-clad lady who, I’m sure, would have given even G W Bush a tough time before letting him through to the counter.

The interview was rather short: I explained what happened and urged him to issue me a visa the same day so that I could take the flight back home the next day as planned. The visa officer, although slightly amused by my story, proceeded to review my application. After carefully ascertaining that I was a genuine applicant with no ulterior motives other than wanting to be home on time and escape the wife’s wrath, he promised to do his best to expedite the process. A married man perhaps. I was asked to pay the fees – a definite sign that my visa would get stamped. But the real question eating my brain was: When?

As if on cue, yet another stewardess appeared from nowhere and ushered me to yet another counter for some more processing. This time an Asian lady with impeccable English ran through an exhaustive set of questions the responses to none of which seemed to convince her to her fullest satisfaction. Finally, after interviewing me for what seemed like ages, she beamed a smile from behind the glass and asked me to return the following week to collect my visa. Mm mm, next week ain't gonna work ma’am. I had to explain my travel situation to her with the help of my itinerary and my previous conversation with the officer. She consulted with the officer that had interviewed me and finally consented to issue the visa the very same day. Tick tock tick tock…easily the longest five minutes in recent memory. It was at that moment that I chose to divulge to her that my passport had a solitary empty side, right behind my just expired visa. With a roll of her eyes, she walked in to the printing section and consulted with someone who reluctantly agreed to print it on that page. As an exception. Tick tock tick tock…easily the longest two minutes in recent memory. If they had refused, I had the Indian embassy’s address ready in my pocket to rush there and request a new passport. Phew!

I felt an intense feeling of relief wash all over me as I realized that my ordeal was coming to an end. I checked my watch. I had spent just over two hours at the embassy. However, in the bigger scheme of things, in less than 36 hours from when I landed in Taipei with a near-full passport and an expired visa, I had gone from being a person uncertain of when he would meet his family to a confirmed ticket holder with a freshly minted visa and on his way home as planned. Imagine walking on water, parting the seas and feeding a village with a lone fish – all in a single day. Although I had yet again brought another tight situation upon myself, I had yet again managed to break out of jail. If there is a God, he has a very twisted sense of humor. Unbeknownst to me, further proof lay ahead.

Stepping out of the embassy, I had my first meal in over 24 hours: a foot-long veggie delite at a Subway nearby. I classified that as breakfast and since I had a few hours to pick up my stamped passport, decided to get myself an Indian meal for lunch. A luxury that I decided to indulge in given the circumstances. God, despite his twisted sense of humor, finally was beginning to cut me some slack. I hailed a passing cab and asked him to take me to Ali Baba, a half-decent Indian restaurant that I had frequented on my earlier visits. The driver, who must have been licking his lips at the prospect of making some quick money, consulted with some fellow drivers nearby and started driving around. Although I knew I was being ripped off, I was not in the mood to protest.  

After about 10 minutes of passing through narrow lanes, he stopped in front of an Italian restaurant and tried convincing me that this is where I had asked him to take me. After much explanation, he drove around a bit more and this time stopped in front of an Iranian (Persian) restaurant. His next stops, I suspect, would have been Iraqi, Israeli, Indonesian restaurants before taking me to an Indian place finally. Instead I chose to call his bluff, settled his fare, collected the receipt and decided to ditch my Indian lunch plans in favor of a third “I” cuisine: Irish. That’s right. I started making my way towards a nearby McDonald’s to have a BigMac lite (a regular priced Big Mac without the meat. Every time I travel, McD’s make good margins) when the falling drizzle made me realize that I had left my umbrella behind in that taxi.

I started giving chase but the lights had already turned green and he eased into the sea of traffic and soon disappeared. Now keen readers may wonder why I would be running behind some random taxi for an umbrella that probably cost $5? It was no ordinary umbrella: it was my manager’s father’s umbrella with his name printed on it. That is why. Even if I did buy an exact replacement, my calligraphy skills would give me away. Moreover, the prospect of missing out on my meager professional output for the rest of the year had already given him a mild heart attack. Although the visa was obtained, I didn't want to do any further damage to my already besmirched image by reporting the lost umbrella.

Swearing to hunt it down, I entered a branch of the Taishin International Bank that was right there and urged the security guard to call the taxi to return my item. In English. The nonplussed guard, who spoke nary a bit of the Queen's language, pointed me to the Savings Deposit counter which, I suspect, also doubled up as the “Miscellaneous Stupid Requests” counter as needed.

I explained the situation to the lady behind the counter.

“Taxi. Umbrella. Take. Call. Taxi. Return. Umbrella. Please” Repeat after me: less is better.

When she stood up, a very pregnant lady that could go into labor any minute, and started to go to the security desk, it wasn't fully clear whether it was to help me trace the missing umbrella or call the cops on me. But I've read somewhere that pregnant ladies are better judges of character*.
* To be verified.

Although the bank wasn't exactly teeming with depositors eager to conduct financial business, bear in mind, it was still peak hour and she must have had banking duties to take care of. Yet, she parked herself at the security desk and started dialing the cab company's phone number from my receipt. I silently wished her a happy child birth whether or not my manager got his umbrella back. She must have been on the phone for a good ten minutes.The poor soul even passed me hand-written notes while still on the phone to keep me updated on what was happening.

“I catch the taxi owner.” “Umbrella on the taxi.” “Taxi driver move back fast.”

* Sniff.* People, if this doesn't make you believe in the general goodness of humanity, I don’t know what will.

In less than five minutes, the same taxi pulled up in front of the branch. A little while later, I thanked the kind lady profusely and left the place clutching the umbrella tightly. I was having a very lucky day by any measure: it seemed I couldn't do a thing wrong even if I tried. I wish I had bought a lottery ticket amidst all that was happening. I walked all the way back to the US embassy reflecting on my good fortunes. At the appointed hour of 3:30 pm, my now full passport with the visa printed on the very last page was ready for daddy to pick it up. As I ran my fingers along the smooth surface, I could imagine how Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing would have felt at the summit of Mount Everest. Even if they had gone back to pick up something Edmund had left behind on their first climb. 


The return flight home next day was easily the best trans-pacific hop I've ever taken. The crummy United Airlines 747 aircraft felt like a Singapore Airlines 777ER. The cramped economy class cabin felt like the luxurious first class zone. The aging, rude flight crew appeared like the cheerful, pleasant ones from Singapore Airlines. The Asian vegetarian goo though still felt like badly cooked cardboard. 

Thursday, December 20, 2012

Visa drama in Taipei - Part I


A last minute business trip to Taiwan popped up at work recently. Just as I was entertaining hopes of closing out another low-travel year, my chain of management decided otherwise. When I broke the news to my wife, I could predict her reactions fairly accurately. After years of holding a traveling job while being married earns you some smartness. Up first is the period of quiet immediately after the news is broken. Followed by the big bang – a fiery show of anger and annoyance at having to run a one-woman show while I'm away. Soon supplanted by resignation that this trip will happen too, like the many ones before. Or the ones in future. This time however, the individual doses were stronger than normal as this would be the first time she will be all by herself with our kid in the US where she hasn't yet started driving. And to add to the list of woes, the kid was not keeping well with a bout of fever, cold and cough resulting in sleepless nights and a very runny nose. Talk about a perfect storm. Oh, and the weather was forecast to be stormy with incessant rains. This was the one window of bad weather in the otherwise gorgeous Bay Area climate. 

In the melee leading up to my departure for the trip, I failed to take note of a critical aspect: my US visa had expired and had to be renewed before I could return home. Happily unaware, I took to the skies to try and be productive for my company half way across the globe.

Most countries make Indian passport holders part the seas while walking on coals before issuing a temporary visa valid for only the duration of the visit. I must mention that the blessed nation of Taiwan issues their visa without any questions to all valid US visa holders. That's right: so long as a current, valid US visa is stamped on your Indian passport, Taiwan throws open its doors. For 30 days. 

Upon arrival at the Taipei airport, I was thumbing through my passport to open the US visa page which needs to be verified to allow entry. To my horror, I realized that it had expired exactly two weeks before. The Taiwanese immigration official didn't notice this discrepancy and waved me in. As soon as I checked in to my hotel, I shot off an innocuous email to the attorneys in CA whether I needed a visa to re-enter the US with nothing more than hope that something in the background had happened unbeknownst to me that would magically let me in. A curt email confirmed my fears: I had to get my visa renewed before I could return home. If this was a typical Indian movie, this would be the moment when the room starts spinning slowly as I barely manage to clutch the edge of the table to steady myself while loud music, mostly violins, plays in the background. Yeah, it was that bad. It felt as if I was living through a bad nightmare.

Folks that have gone through the grind will appreciate how difficult it can be to get an American visa stamped on your passport. Be it getting the photograph taken to specification or completing the applications or arranging the supporting documents, it requires a lot of preparation and can be an arduous task on a good day, even in your own city with the assistance of your travel desk. And here I was, an Indian, sitting in Taiwan by myself trying to get an American visa stamped. This was disastrous on a global level. 

My fears were many and the odds were firmly stacked against me. Will there be an appointment slot available within a reasonable time? Will they accept my application or ask me to go to India (my home country) or Singapore (where my previous visa was issued)? Will there be additional administrative processing involved that could potentially leave me stranded in Taiwan or Singapore or India for weeks? If so, I would then have to go to India to even apply as my Taiwanese visa would run out in a few days’ time. Will I be able to return before New Year’s? Will my son recognize me when I meet him again? The taxi ride to work was spent battling all these questions. Oh and did I mention that my passport was completely out of pages except for one empty side right behind another visa? Slowly but steadily, the gravity of the situation sunk in.

At the office, I informed my manager, who was also traveling with me, about the hole that I found myself in. The one dialog that would capture the essence of his response: மண்ணடி பின்னாடி. முதல்ல visa-வை கவனி.

I rolled up my sleeves and got down to tackle the task at hand. I looked up the next available visa appointment. Luckily for me, a slot was available at 7:45am the very next day. Woot! I had nailed down one variable. Now I had a deadline in sight to get all the prep work done by. I then completed the application form and shot off emails to various people to send me the supporting documents. As it was still evening back in California, the responses started trickling in right away. The attorneys were going to send me the visa petition and an assortment of other required documents, the HR group my employment verification details and support letters.

I then sat down to make that all important call back home to my wife and break the good news to her. And also ask for copies of my educational certificates and some more obscure documents. If I had it my way, I would have got on the phone not before a couple of shots of Grey Goose. But hey, when the going gets tough, the tough get going. Alcohol or not. Needless to say, the call went longer than expected. Much longer. Although I didn’t expect to exchange sweet nothings with my wife, her reactions traced a wide arc, touching upon qualities that an education had failed to instill in me to scrutinizing my capabilities to run a family or even be gainfully employed for that matter. I weathered the storm rather admirably (doodling on the hotel notepad) and when she finally let me do it, I read out the list of documents that I wanted sent. A colleague of mine living nearby in the Bay Area graciously agreed to pick up the documents from her and email me a soft copy. With that aspect also taken care of, I walked out into the driving rains to finally meet my beloved customers: the original purpose of my trip.

That evening, I got my picture taken at a studio. A first for me in Taiwan. The studio didn't have dirty combs, smelly half coats, forlorn ties or even a dented tin of Cuticura of Jurassic vintage – standard issue items in any Chennai studio. As a result, I could hardly identify myself in the picture. But it had a white background and was two inches square and that is all that matters.

Once back in my hotel room I had no inclination to have dinner: food was the last thing on my racing mind.  I grabbed an apple, got online and started monitoring the incoming documents.  The attorneys sent me what they said they would. My colleague sent me the copies. The HR folks, as usual, were the last ones to turn in their homework. At 4 AM, with all documents received and sleep refusing to grace my eyelids, I walked down to the hotel’s business center and started putting together my visa application package. I decided to pack in a whole bunch of documents that were not required including my travel itinerary. More is better when it comes to visa applications. By 5:30 AM, I was showered, dressed up in a dandy suit –can’t skimp on any niceties with so much at stake - and waiting for the cab to take me and a very pregnant manila folder to Taipei. 

Did the slowelectron get the visa stamped? Did he fly back home in time for the holidays? Watch this space for the final part. 

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

A dozen dates; you join the dots

01/01/01 - In Tempe, AZ, trying to shake off the effects of a block party ushering in the new year with a bunch of friends.

02/02/02 - Still in Tempe, AZ. Going through the grind of the spring semester at ASU.

03/03/03 - No points for guessing: still based in AZ. Going through the routines of yet another spring semester at ASU. A few of us are beginning to look like Mike Murali: forever in college.

04/04/04 - In Chennai.  A period of growing anxiety about finding a job in India/Chennai after having returned from the US in January. Anticipating a call from the company that I had interviewed with in February. I did receive the call a few days later and I joined on 04/15.

05/05/05 - In the Bay Area, CA on some assignments. Little do I know that this will become my place of residence in another 5 years.

06/06/06 - In Grenoble, France. Working at a customer site on a short term assignment. I recollect attending a meeting that day with the top guys there in a conference room with a fine view of the mountains.

07/07/07 - In upstate NY, wrapping up a very interesting project at IBM. Two of my colleagues have their respective second kids, both girls, born on this day.

08/08/08 - In Chennai. Performing the 8th day ceremonies for my mother who had passed away a week earlier.

09/09/09 - In Singapore. Email archives say that it was a meh day at work. I was preparing to go to Korea the following week. Interesting note: nearly all of the people from those emails have since moved on to different careers.

10/10/10 - In Singapore. Preparing to move to the US via India a month later. My wife is pregnant with our kid and is battling morning sickness while we mentally prepare ourselves for the cross-continental move. Good times.

11/11/11 - In the Bay Area, CA which has become home for nearly a year.Yet again the email archives and office notebook entries (mostly doodles) seem to suggest an uneventful Friday. The wife has returned from a trip to India and we are real parents, taking care of our 7-month old kid ourselves.

12/12/12 - Typing up this post! Maybe I will update on how this Wednesday turned out. Stay tuned.


Tuesday, December 11, 2012